This pretty capital is still relatively unknown, yet it's surprisingly easy to reach by train. Traveling by train to Slovenia is quite simple: a Paris to Ljubljana train journey can be done with just one connection in Zurich. From Switzerland, you hop on the Zurich to Ljubljana night train and wake up refreshed, ready to explore the city.

As you arrive in the charming Ljubljana city center, you’re struck by a strange feeling—as though you’ve stepped into a dream. It’s a little like Disneyland, or better yet, like The Truman Show, the film with Jim Carrey where all the townspeople are actors in a fabricated world.

A Pedestrian City, Like a Dream

On the steps of the pink Church of the Annunciation, students are chatting. A family enjoys ice cream beneath the statue of poet France Prešeren. An accordionist, later revealed to be an Instagram star, plays cheerful tunes as passersby hum along. We’re right in front of the Tromostovje, the famous Triple Bridge of Ljubljana, and the feeling of surrealism is at its peak.

Looking around, you suddenly realize—there are no cars. None parked, none driving. The streets of the city center belong to pedestrians and cyclists, who move in a graceful, summery dance.

Church of the Annunciation and the Triple Bridge, Ljubljana

A Record Number of Terraces Per Inhabitant

In this car-free city center, terraces bloom everywhere in warm weather. Ljubljana might well have the highest number of café terraces per capita in the world. From the historic main streets to the banks of the Ljubljanica River, all the way into leafier, more local neighborhoods, it’s a never-ending series of tables, umbrellas, and laughter.

You can wander around Ljubljana all day long, and the terraces are never empty—filled with Slovenes from the city and beyond, and tourists who, to our ear, speak neither English nor French.

Terraces in Ljubljana

The City of the Castle and the Dragon

To complete its fairy-tale charm, Ljubljana is crowned by a castle perched atop a wooded hill, accessible by funicular. Heavily renovated, the castle now houses several restaurants, but more importantly, it offers a breathtaking panoramic view over the city. The 13th-century fortress even appears on the city’s coat of arms, guarded by a mighty green dragon.

Ljubljana Castle overlooking the city

Legend has it that a dragon once lived on the banks of the Ljubljanica, until Jason, hero of the Golden Fleece, stopped in Ljubljana and slew the beast. Jason is fondly remembered as the first inhabitant of the city. The dragon, too, has found redemption—from monster to protector. Now a symbol of the city, it’s found everywhere: in bronze on bridges, as plush toys in souvenir shops, even in mosaic form by street artist Space Invader.

The protective dragon of Ljubljana

Metelkova, Ljubljana’s Alternative Quarter

Ljubljana is lovely and remarkably clean. It’s often called the safest city in Europe. Its historic center could be the setting for any romantic film, and its glorious Tivoli Park is like an enchanted forest filled with squirrels.

But if you want to explore Ljubljana’s edgy side, head to Metelkova. Half squat, half artist commune, this alternative district has taken over former army barracks. By day, you’ll find colorful murals, street art, sculptures, and a few locals who aren’t too keen on being photographed. On weekend nights, however, the place comes alive—with beer and music, like downtown, but in a much wilder atmosphere.

Metelkova, Ljubljana’s alternative neighborhood

Ljubljana’s Very Own Sistine Chapel

Finally, for an artistic souvenir of your Ljubljana adventure, don’t miss the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, with its stunning bronze doors and dazzling painted ceiling. This Baroque cathedral is easily recognizable by its green dome and twin towers. You can enter via the South portal, where a striking bronze door, added in 1996 to commemorate Pope John Paul II’s visit, depicts six bishops leaning over the body of Christ.

Bronze door of Saint Nicholas Cathedral

Step inside (a sign indicates hours for worshippers and visitors), and prepare to be amazed. It’s not quite the Sistine Chapel—but almost! The ceiling of this lavishly decorated church is covered with a vast fresco by Italian master Giulio Quaglio, painted in 1705. It depicts the persecution of Saint Nicholas and the early Christians in Myra.

Look closely and you’ll see a whirlwind of trompe-l'œil effects: fleeing martyrs clinging to cornices, angels helping Christians hide, and Roman horsemen bursting out of the frame.

18th-century fresco inside Saint Nicholas Cathedral

This dramatic, almost comic-book-like fresco will surely leave a lasting impression—but of course, it won’t be the only one. So, our advice? Get ready to visit Ljubljana—this magical little world is waiting for you!

Discovery Trains’ Tip: Ljubljana is a charming and underrated city to include in any Eastern European train journey, or even as part of a Western Europe itinerary alongside a Swiss or Italian train tour. The Slovenian capital can be thoroughly explored in just a day and a half. To discover it by train, Discovery Trains offers several custom travel packages on request.