"I Tested the Rome–Palermo Night Train (on a Ferry!)"

You tested the Italian night train departing from Sicily. How was your departure day?

In the morning, I strolled through the Ballarò Market. I love this colorful maze of alleyways filled with stalls—and of course, those beautiful Italian lemons. For lunch, I grabbed some arancini and a delicious granita con brioche in the old town. In the afternoon, I visited Palermo Cathedral, a stunning mix of Arab-Norman architecture. Toward the end of the day—keeping an eye out for scooters—I picked up my luggage from the Palermo train station locker.

Palermo Central Station, Sicily © Discovery Trains

What is the Rome–Palermo night train like?

It’s a sleek Trenitalia night train, with two types of cars: 4-berth couchette compartments and comfortable sleeper cabins with 2 or 3 beds. Some sleepers, the “Excelsior” class, even include private toilets and showers.

Two categories of sleepers: Deluxe and Excelsior © Discovery Trains

On board the Intercity Notte, passengers receive a welcome kit with earplugs, soap, paper towels, and a carton of water. Sheets and blankets are sealed in plastic. Compartments are decently soundproofed and—to my surprise—the windows actually open a little, which is great for fresh air in the morning. For safety, doors can be locked from the inside, and when booking, you can request a women-only compartment.

By day, the couchette compartments convert into real seats—a handy table folds down between two passengers.

In daytime mode, a table folds out between two seats

You traveled in a couchette compartment. Which bunk would you recommend—top or bottom?

Personally, I usually go for the bottom bunk on night trains. There's more space to store your belongings and you're less affected by others' schedules. That said, on the Intercity Notte by Trenitalia, the top bunks are actually pretty good—there’s enough room to sit up without hitting your head. On the bottom bunk, though, I couldn’t sit upright once the top bed was down (and I'm fairly tall).

Each bunk, top or bottom, has its own reading light that works even when the train is stationary. However, the only power outlets are located on the lower level.

The Intercity Notte with removable ladder and couchettes © Discovery Trains

How was the journey on this Italian night train?

The Intercity Notte departs Palermo around 9 p.m. Between there and Messina, the train makes three stops to pick up more passengers. It then boards a ferry to cross the Strait of Messina, arriving at Villa San Giovanni on the mainland. From there, the train continues to Rome, stopping briefly in Salerno and Naples before arriving in Rome just before 10 a.m.

About 45 minutes before arrival, a basic breakfast is served: a cookie, orange juice, and a coffee that—miraculously—is actually good! The ultimate proof you’re on an Italian night train.

The Palermo–Rome night train in Palermo Station © Discovery Trains

Was the ferry crossing the highlight of the Rome–Palermo train journey?

A train crossing the sea—what a rare railway curiosity in Europe! And yes, for train travel enthusiasts, this is a major highlight. The actual ferry ride is short—around 15 to 20 minutes—but the whole ferry operation takes about an hour, including loading and unloading.

At the port in Messina, our train from Palermo was joined by another train from Syracuse. Cars from both were loaded into the ferry’s lower deck. It’s a fascinating process: crew members carefully align the boat’s rails with the port tracks.

It’s impressive but surprisingly calm. Most passengers sleep right through it! One thing to note: train toilets are closed during the ferry crossing, so you’ll need to use those on the boat.

The night train leaves Sicily on board the ferry © Discovery Trains

Was this journey helpful for Discovery Trains?

I took the Rome–Palermo night train to prepare our new grand train tour of Italy, called “From Northern to Southern Italy.” For logistical reasons, I did it in reverse—from south to north—but I now think the north-to-south direction is best.

Why? Because on the Sicilian side of the journey, the train follows the coast—it must be stunning by day! Sadly, departing Palermo at 9 p.m., you can’t see much. The same goes for the ferry crossing after midnight—you can just make out the statue of the Madonnina, the town’s protector, glowing atop her column, but not much of the sea.

In the other direction, though, the train reaches the ferry around 5 a.m.—early, yes, but that’s when you can watch the sun rise over Sicily, and enjoy your crossing with a coffee on the ferry’s deck.

In our train-and-hotel tour, travelers take the night train from Rome to Palermo. It’s going to be magical.

Rome Station at the arrival of the Intercity Notte © Discovery Trains