"I travelled aboard the VSOE", Venice - Paris by luxury train

Anne Valério and her husband live in France, about an hour from Lyon. In April 2023, they have decided to travel from Venice to Paris on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, Belmond's luxury train affectionately known as the "VSOE".

Anne Valério at the door of the VSOE © Anne Valério

What made you decide to travel by luxury train?

Anne Valério's compartment, day version © Anne Valério

I'd been thinking about this trip for a long time. I'd seen some information on the networks, so I went to the Belmond website. When I spoke to the Discovery Trains specialists in Lyon, the idea became more concrete for me. But my husband still hadn't made up his mind.
One day, we watched a TV report together about the restoration of the VSOE near Clermont-Ferrand at the Philippe Allemand workshop. That was the trigger. We decided to book the trip well in advance, more than a year before departure, to take advantage of the best price.

 Anne Valério's compartment, night version © Anne Valério

Did the VSOE train make a good impression on you straight away?

The train itself is superb. When you see it arrive, from the outside it looks like it's never run before! The night before, we'd slept in Venice and had come to check out the platforms. There was no way we could have imagined the magic of the next day. On the day of boarding, we knew straight away that we were expected! There was a carpet alongside the train and a small VSOE kiosk. (On reflection, I think it was because we were the only ones who hadn't ordered a transfer. But at the time, it was incredible!) In front of each car, a steward was waiting. Very impressive and moving.

VSOE welcome desk in Venice © Anne Valério

Who were the other passengers on board the VSOE?

Most of the passengers on the VSOE spoke English. But there were also a few French people, including a former railway worker who had always dreamed of making this trip with his wife. I'd say that most of the passengers were over 40-45 years old, although the ages varied quite a lot. Mainly couples, but also women with their mum or another female member of their family. What I liked was that everyone seemed enthusiastic. I was worried that some passengers, perhaps more used to luxury train travel than us, might be a little jaded. This was not the case. Thanks to the little touches from the staff, everyone seemed to be in awe.

 Mr Valério with steward Apolline © Anne Valério

Are the VSOE passengers very elegant?

During the day, people were well dressed, but nothing exceptional. I have to say that I expected more. I even saw a lady in flip-flops! At mealtimes, however, everyone was elegant. The train announcements insisted on reminding everyone that elegant dress was required for lunch and dinner. And at mealtimes, all the passengers played the game. The men wore suits, some even dinner jackets. The ladies wore long dresses or very smart trousers.

 The VSOE lounge © Anne Valério

Did you have any special clothes planned?

I was delighted to wear clothes that would do justice to the train and the event! Luckily, we married our daughter in 2021. We took our wedding clothes. My husband wore his suit and I wore my cocktail dress. It was perfect.

Did you enjoy the meals?

The meals are delicious. And the service is extraordinary! You have to remember that we're on a moving train. The waiters are extremely dexterous. At one point, for example, the waiter goes to serve you some sauce, but suddenly stops and says "Hop, let's wait a bit". He's used to deciphering the train's messages: he knows there's going to be a bit of pitching, so he anticipates!

A refined menu on board © Anne Valério

Did your compartment in the VSOE have a shower?

There are no showers on board the train, except in the Suites. We had a mini toilet. In your compartment, you see two beautiful rounded doors. When you open them, they reveal a small washbasin with everything you need. It's more than enough for a quick 'cat wash' and for just one night's travel, it's really not a problem. The toilet was at the end of the car, and it looks just like the train.

The bathroom of the VSOE © Anne Valério

Were you able to enjoy the scenery along the way?

Of course I did! From Venice, we headed straight up to Verona, then crossed the Tyrol, Liechtenstein and Innsbruck in Austria: we could see snow-capped mountains and greenery everywhere. We arrived in Paris the next morning. But the show was also on the train. During the day, my husband and I never closed the door of our compartment. We could see the landscape flashing by through the windows on the other side, as well as the staff in livery passing by in the corridor. 

The train crosses some wonderful landscapes © Anne Valério

What impressed you most about the VSOE train?

I'd have to say the beauty of the train's interior and its attention to detail. The VSOE is a bubble where every single decorative element has been given special attention. The stewards' uniforms, of course, but also the trimmings on the curtains, the lighting, the cutlery... One small detail, for example: at mealtimes, as you enter, you are served a small round jar of butter: on one side sweet butter, on the other flavoured butter. At lunchtime, a truffle butter. In the evening, orange-flavoured butter. And even the butter is stamped with the VSOE coat of arms! You really are in the realm of detail and refinement.

The history of the carriage inscribed on the cab door © Anne Valério

Do you have fond memories of this trip?

I have wonderful, moving memories. It was an expensive trip, but I really don't regret having done it. Fun fact: there's a letterbox on the train. In our compartment we found four postcards showing different views of the train. I wrote these four cards, one for each of my children and one for myself. I slipped them into their beautiful envelope with the VSOE coat of arms and posted them in the dedicated box. Back in Venice, the train staff took care of carrying my mail to the Post Office. I've just received my own card, stamped and stamped in Venice. It's a nice way of prolonging this wonderful trip!